A sports bar feeds you incidentally. The Playbook Commons cures branzino in salt and sugar, finishes it with prosecco, lemon, extra-virgin olive oil, and Vancouver Island sea salt, and sends it out while the screens above the bar are still running. The distance between what the format promises and what this kitchen actually does is the whole proposition. Opened in the spring of 2025 on the ground floor of Hotel X, at the lakeshore end of Exhibition Place, it was built by Harlo Entertainment as sports theatre rather than a sports bar, and the distinction lives in the pasta and the steaks more than in the screens. Groups use it the way the building intends: dinner before an event, a corporate table, a game that happens to be on.
The menu is American-Italian with a steakhouse spine. Corn Arancini is the clearest fingerprint — sweet corn, mozzarella, brown butter aioli, fried sage, grana padano — a starter chef Jia Zou traces back to a sweet-corn soup he prepped at Auberge du Pommier. Spicy Vodka Rigatoni keeps the cream-and-tomato comfort of the familiar version, then folds in Venetian pepperoni cups, the same cups that arrive on their own as a starter with hot honey on the side. Lasagna Rotolo rolls spinach, ricotta, bechamel, fontina, and pecorino into spicy marinara. The Prime New York Strip, Canadian AAA or prime, comes under a mushroom peppercorn sauce built from bordelaise and Steak Diane cues at once. Hand-cut steak tartare and a wagyu meatball hold down the starters. Dessert is a Basque cheesecake bruleed at the table.
Read the dishes together and the kitchen's argument comes through. The arancini carries a fine-dining memory into a plate meant for sharing. The crudo gives a steak-and-pasta list a cold, clean opening note. The rigatoni takes the most familiar pasta in Toronto and ties it to one particular pantry. These are decisions made by someone who expects the food to be tasted rather than absorbed between plays. Even the asparagus gets the treatment: dressed raw in olive oil and salt, grilled, then laid over a green goddess sauce of thyme, tarragon, and chive.
The bar keeps pace. Count Me In is a negroni in a different register — Don Julio Reposado, Campari, Cinzano Rosso, and Amontillado sherry over a stamped cube. Rose Coloured Glasses runs Grey Goose, St. Germain, Aperol, egg white, lemon, and honey, a sour and a spritz arguing to a draw. Wine and cocktails carry as much of the evening here as beer does, which is not how the category usually works. The floor divides into a main dining room, a lounge, the Garden Bar — a name that nods at an arena — and the Gateway, each carrying a published capacity for parties that arrive already assembled.
Jia Zou runs the kitchen; local reporting named him head chef when the restaurant opened. Harlo Entertainment operates it, and the group's thinking shows in how much of the calendar is assumed rather than hoped for. Conventions, concerts, matches, teams and the families who follow them — Exhibition Place delivers its own crowd, and a restaurant at its front door either builds for that crowd or waits on it. The private rooms were not an afterthought.
The restaurant opens when the evening does, dinner only, and the narrowed window concentrates everything into one service. Exhibition Place runs on a schedule nobody at the table controls: quiet Tuesdays, a Saturday that arrives all at once. Playbook Commons is built for the surge without needing it. The proof is in what the kitchen does on a night with nothing on the screens worth watching — the cure still gets its prosecco, the arancini still get their sage, and someone still comes to the table with a torch for the cheesecake.