Wabora is strongest for diners who want more than standard rolls: Fire Chicken, Tuna Tower, bulgogi, sashimi, and lobster or yellowtail rolls move the meal between spice, raw fish, and cooked Korean plates.

Curious diners get more than a standard chip-truck order here: the poutine can move toward adobo or bistek, while lumpia and inasal introduce a different centre of gravity without making the meal difficult to approach.

The menu rewards diners who want to move beyond one familiar noodle order. Papaya salad, green mango salad, Tom Yum, Tom Kha, curries and seafood dishes create several routes through sharper, richer and herb-led Thai flavours.

The menu rewards diners who want pizza to move beyond familiar combinations. Named pies such as Chelsea’s Choice and Smokin’ Muskokan make sourdough the base for sweet, smoky and savory contrasts.