The Pierogi Pizza tells you how this kitchen thinks. Garlic butter and thinly sliced Yukon Gold potatoes go down first, then real bacon, scallions and a finish of sour cream — a comfort-food idea taken apart and rebuilt on a crust, down to the last cold drizzle. Rollin' Pizza, an independent shop on Lake Street in St. Catharines, runs a whole signature board on that instinct. A cheeseburger becomes the Big Papa: ground beef, Cheddar and white onion on a sesame-seed crust, finished with shredded lettuce, dill pickles and a secret sauce. Mac and cheese becomes Hey Macarena, cavatappi noodles and a house four-cheese sauce baked onto garlic butter. The menu reads less like a list of toppings than a kitchen deciding what a pizza can be.
The specifics hold up across the board. Dill With It leans on dill pickles, a secret spice blend and ranch; Spicy Pepperoni finishes a familiar pie with a drizzle of honey; Magic Mushroom layers a fresh mushroom medley over thyme, rosemary and a creamy alfredo. Island Heat works a sesame crust with chili-infused red onions, pineapple, salsa verde and jalapenos, while Butter Chicken, Chicken BLT, Greek and Meatzza fill out a lineup that rarely settles for a preset. Beside the signatures runs a second crust identity altogether: a Detroit section baked in blue steel pans, thick and chewy with crisp edges and two stripes of sauce laid over the cheese. The Diva piles on marinated chicken, bacon, pesto and alfredo; the American leans on cup-and-char pepperoni.
What carries the cooking is attention to the parts most pizzerias buy in. The mozza sticks are breaded from real mozzarella and fried to order with house marinara. The calzone is baked, not fried, sealed with garlic butter and Parmesan and served with marinara on the side. The pasta runs deeper than a pizza shop needs it to — real beef lasagna, a carbonara tossed with roasted mushrooms and bacon, chicken parmigiana over spaghetti, fettuccine with grilled chicken in an alfredo wine sauce, and spaghetti and meatballs in house marinara. Since opening in 2020, the shop has built its following on dishes a regular can name rather than on polish, and it keeps adding to that vocabulary instead of trimming it.
The plant-based menu is the clearest sign of how seriously the kitchen takes its own range. It is not a token crust and a handful of vegetables; it is the comfort menu rebuilt a second time. Vegan Pierogi swaps in vegan bacun and a garlic-sauce finish, Vegan Big Papa keeps the pickles and the shredded lettuce, and a Vegan Dill With It carries the same pickle-and-aioli idea. Vegan Clubhouse, Vegan Meatball, Vegan BBQ Jackfruit and a Vegan Detroit Pepperoni all shadow their counterparts on the regular board. There are vegan mozza sticks, cauliflower bites by the pound, and for dessert a vegan, gluten-free banana chocolate lava made with coconut milk, almond powder and dates. The vegan board runs nearly as long as the one it mirrors.
Most of that food is built to travel and to feed a group. Party trays, wing bundles in eight- and twenty-piece counts, build-your-own sizing and an oversized Big Slice give a table several ways to stretch a single order, and the boneless and bone-in wings come in formats sized for sharing. The kitchen keeps long hours, too — open every day and running until two in the morning on Fridays and Saturdays, which makes it as much a late-night option as a dinner one. It is a neighbourhood pizza counter in the North End that happens to keep a full vegan menu and a Detroit pan program going beside the pepperoni. The order that leaves the door is rarely the plainest one.