Tucked into the antipasti list at Johnny Rocco's Italian Grill is a plate called the Italian Sushi Roll — prosciutto, sun-dried tomato and arugula wrapped in fiore di latte, finished with pesto and aged balsamic. It is the clearest tell of how this St. Catharines kitchen works: a comfort-Italian menu that keeps a straight face through lasagna and chicken parmigiana, then lets one dish show a little mischief. The restaurant sits in a historic stone-mill building on Merritt Street, and it runs as a full-service grill built to stretch — a weeknight pasta dinner, a family table, or a night that wants to feel like an occasion, all served from the same kitchen.
The menu moves through antipasti, pasta and griglia, and it is deepest in the middle. Starters lean shareable and a little indulgent: Johnny's Parmesan Chips, thin-sliced potato fried gold and tossed with parmesan, chives and garlic under a lemon garlic aioli; Zia's Famous Rice Balls, hand-rolled Sicilian arancini stuffed with provolone and fried crisp; and Calamari Fritti with that same aioli and a grilled lemon. The pasta carries the weight — Homemade Lasagna layered with meat sauce, béchamel and mozzarella; a Risotto con Pollo alla Calabrese; a seafood Linguine Pescatore; and a Lobster Fettuccine that folds North Atlantic lobster into a parmesan cream sauce. From the griglia comes Lemon Pepper Salmon in a white wine butter sauce, and the kitchen keeps the expected anchors close by: Chicken Parmigiana, Eggplant Parmigiana, Osso Buco, a house pizza, and a Toblerone cheesecake to finish.
Thursday reorganizes the whole restaurant. Tapas Thursday trades individual mains for an all-you-can-eat run of small plates, with one rule that sets the tone — everyone seated at the table takes part. It is less a promotion than a format, a night built for a group rather than a single plate, and it suits a dining room that already leans social, with live music turning up on the calendar and a layout made for larger tables. Since opening in 2013, the grill has grown into that role for its corner of St. Catharines: the place people book when the guest list is long and the evening is meant to run.
That reach is not an accident of a long menu. The kitchen crosses Italy and the Atlantic in a single sitting — Sicilian arancini, a Calabrian-style chicken risotto, an Italian Sushi Roll that answers to no region at all, and North Atlantic lobster pulled into a parmesan cream. The parmesan runs through much of it — over the chips, into the risotto, across the fettuccine. It cooks like a modern Italian grill rather than a museum of one, comfortable serving both the dish a table expects and the one it didn't know to order.
Away from the event nights, the restaurant works as a straightforward neighbourhood grill. Lunch and dinner are both on offer, with beer and wine to set beside a pasta plate and full table service that lets an evening build at its own pace. This is the everyday half of the operation, the reason it stays busy between the Thursdays. Takeout and delivery run off the same kitchen, for the nights a table would rather stay home.
Merritt Street, in the Glendale commercial area off the QEW, is a destination address rather than a downtown window, and Johnny Rocco's has made itself the reason for the drive. It is the standing answer when a family wants pasta without fuss, or when a group wants a Thursday that turns into a long one. The stone-mill walls give the evening a little occasion, and the menu gives everyone at the table something to reach for. The order that tells the story starts with rice balls to share and ends with a fettuccine nobody wants to split.