Most sushi restaurants treat the drink list as a page near the back. Masaki Sushi builds the meal the other way around. The sake collection runs past eighty bottles, it is curated by a master sake sommelier, and it is meant to lead the table rather than trail behind it. That single decision reshapes how an order comes together at the Picton Street sushi bar in Old Town: the question is not only which rolls to get, but which pour sits beside them.
The food earns the attention the sake draws to it. The Masaki Roll is the house calibration order — an avocado-and-cucumber roll topped with seared salmon, Hokkaido scallops, and spicy mayo, the dish that tells a first-time table what the kitchen cares about. From there the menu widens. A5 Wagyu Ishiyaki arrives on a hot stone, beef the diner finishes searing at the table. Grilled Gindara puts black cod under citrus chili soy. There is a Spicy Sashimi Salad cut with daikon and tobiko, an Oyster Shooter set in ponzu jelly, Aburi Pork Belly Don over rice, and a Salmon Lover plate that runs sashimi, nigiri, and hosomaki in one order for a table that wants to commit to one fish.
The sake is where Masaki separates itself. Beyond the eighty-plus bottles, the program offers guided routes — a Sake Flight of three small pours, a longer Sake Journey for a table that wants to travel further, and a private-label Kyoto sake the restaurant carries under its own name. Ordering here means pairing rather than defaulting: the flight set against Chef's Nigiri Sushi, the Journey carried across a longer meal, a single bottle chosen to hold up against the wagyu. The beverage list reaches into local Niagara wines as well, which makes sense for a restaurant sitting in the middle of wine country, but the sake is the spine.
That program has a name behind it. Yoshi Takaoka manages the restaurant and built the sake list, and in early 2026 he earned a master sake sommelier certification — recognized in local reporting as a Canadian first, the result of study that began more than a decade earlier. Executive Chef Seong Il Lee runs the kitchen, working from seafood flown in from Japan. The two-person structure — one hand on the fish, one on the sake — is the place's organizing idea. The restaurant is owned by Lais Hotel Properties and opened in 2017 along the dense culinary stretch of Niagara-on-the-Lake's Queen Street core.
The breadth beyond the signature orders is what makes Masaki workable for an unsettled table. The maki list runs to a Dragon Roll Z built on barbecue eel, tempura bits, and sweet soy, and The Meister, a smoked-salmon-and-Hokkaido-scallop roll finished with wasabi mayo. The hot side answers with a Wagyu and Pork Belly Trio for a group that wants to range across cuts in one order. The seafood-from-Japan positioning sits underneath all of it, and the menu hub points to a current takeout route for diners who would rather carry the cooking home than build an evening around it.
For a tighter visit, lunch is the practical door in. From eleven-thirty to three the kitchen runs a defined special menu — Maki Lunch, Sushi Lunch, Sashimi Lunch, Chirashi Lunch, and Wagyu Croquettes — that lets a midday table eat well without building a whole evening around it. The specialty menu carries the dietary work, mapping gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian routes through dishes like the Masaki Roll and Grilled Gindara so a mixed table is not improvising. However a night is shaped, the move is the same one the room is built for: a roll, a pour chosen to meet it, and a sommelier's list standing behind the choice.