Getting to a table at Papi's starts in a butcher shop. Diners walk past the cases and counters of Mona's Meat Market and push through a cooler-style door into a dim, white-linen steakhouse — a speakeasy-style arrival that could read as pure theatre if the kitchen on the other side were not this committed to the meat itself. Papi's sits inside the 100 Kellogg Lane complex in London's Old East Village, and it runs on reservations rather than walk-ins. It is an adult dining room in the literal sense: no guests twelve and under, which sets the register before the first course arrives.
The dinner menu is built on named beef. Cuts come tagged to their programs — Norwich Farms, Creekstone Farms, High River, Wellington County, and A5 Wagyu from Miyazaki and Hokkaido — so the decision at the table is a choice between sources, not only between sizes. Around the steaks, the kitchen keeps the opening round from collapsing into a single note. Bone Marrow & Escargot is the order for a table that wants Papi's to show its hand early; oysters, Lobster Arancini, and Pan Seared Scallops carry the seafood side; a Table Side Caesar Salad gets finished in front of you. Steak & Frites comes with triple-cooked fries, and the Lewis Farms Ontario Rack of Lamb gives dinner a centrepiece that is not beef without ever leaving the meat-and-product lane the rest of the menu runs in.
That range signals a steakhouse built to be used more than one way. The Wagyu Burger is the lower-ceremony order, and it turns up everywhere — brunch, lunch, and the two-course Executive Power Lunch that sets French Onion Soup or Beef Tartare against a timed midday plate made for a client meal. Brunch keeps the identity intact instead of softening it, with Eggs Benedict and Steak and Eggs sharing the menu with oysters and steak cuts. Posted hours run late on weekend evenings, past the standard dinner window, so the reservation can be a nine o'clock one. Beer and wine both pour, and the pricing sits firmly at the top of London's bracket; this is a night you plan, not a casual drop-in. The Champagne Seafood Pasta and the composed small plates read as a kitchen that wants curious diners to have somewhere to go beyond a rib eye.
The restaurant belongs to the Cribbage Group, run by the Leach and McLaughlin families, and it opened in January 2024. The name is personal. Papi's salutes Martha Leach's father, Archie Leach, and the dining room is assembled from the things he loved — art on the walls, white linen, low light, live roses, music in the air. Chef de Cuisine Jesse Way runs the kitchen with a background that stays close to home and to craft: Stratford Chefs School, Griffith Island, Pearl Hospitality, and Rundles, plus a stated pull toward meat, seafood, wild game, and Canadian-grown product that matches what lands on the plate. Joelle Lees manages the floor. Within its first year, according to local reporting, Papi's landed on OpenTable's Top 100 restaurants in Canada.
Mona's is not only the doorway. It is a working butcher counter and pantry at the same address, which means the beef program that shapes the menu is also something a diner can carry home; the steakhouse and the meat market are one operation seen from two sides. That doubling is the point of the place. The cooler-door arrival pays off because there is a genuine butcher behind it and a chef who cooks like he shops there. Papi's moved into London's special-occasion conversation fast, and the reason is legible on the plate — the theatre gets people through the door, and the sourcing is what gives them a reason to book the next one.