The name is not a flourish. At Garlic's of London, a slow-roasted Ontario garlic bulb arrives as a starter — soft enough to spread, set against herbed Ontario chèvre, a seasonal compote and fried rosemary — and from there the allium keeps surfacing. There is a garlic and caramelized-onion bisque. There is black garlic folded into a demi-glâce over beef tenderloin and into a truffle cream over fettuccine. The kitchen treats its own name as a standing instruction rather than a logo, and the result is a downtown restaurant that has turned one ingredient into a recurring culinary idea. It sits on Richmond Row, a few doors from the Grand Theatre.
The Black Garlic Fettuccine is the clearest line from name to plate: a truffle and black garlic cream tangled with Ontario mushrooms, spinach and shallots, finished with Frisa Farms' cured egg yolk and shaved Grana Padano. The upper end of the menu reads like a proper dinner house. Pan-seared Ontario duck breast comes with a pear and ricotta raviolo and a root-vegetable hash; the beef tenderloin sets pomme fondant and mushroom duxelles under that black garlic demi-glâce. An opening tartare hand-cuts the same Ontario tenderloin onto a crisp corn tortilla with an egg-yolk emulsion and salsa macha. Scallops rest on cauliflower purée under curry oil, the Adriatic-style calamari is grilled rather than battered, and the Thai curry mussels steam Prince Edward Island shellfish in a coconut broth.
Then the register drops, easily. Pizzas come built on house-made San Marzano ragù and Fior di Latte — a clean Margherita, a Shogun Maitake under basil pesto and arugula — alongside a classic burger, a Korean fried-chicken sandwich, garlic parmesan frites and a gnocchi alla Sorrentina baked under San Marzano ragù with a bacon pangrattato. The Caesar leans on a roasted-garlic dressing and the artisan board arrives with garlic honey. Even dessert keeps the thread: the house churns a garlic ice cream alongside the crème brûlée and an in-house cheesecake.
Read the sourcing and a pattern emerges. The greens are Slegers' Organic, the tartare is Beverly Creek AAA Ontario beef, the bacon is Metzger's, the chicken comes from Poultry Specialties and the cured egg yolk from Frisa Farms. This is farm-to-table that names its farms, which lets the kitchen make its local case without leaning on a chef's résumé to carry it. Even the salads carry the idea — a beetroot plate in a maple-Vidal beet emulsion with whipped feta and Ontario hazelnut dukkah. The bar follows the same logic, pouring Southwestern Ontario beer from Anderson Craft Ales, London Brewing Co-operative, Powerhouse and Side Launch.
Garlic's opened in 1993 and has changed hands without losing the thread. Founder Kathy Burns started it; owner Edin "Edo" Pehilj later took it over and steered it into the farm-to-table chapter it occupies now, a turn local reporting places in the mid-2000s. The current kitchen is run by Head Chef Bailey Free, and the restaurant credits Executive Chef David Rosen as an early influence and mentor. The dining room wears that history on the walls — exposed brick, artwork by Steve Tracy, Grand Theatre posters from decades of shows next door, and a hand-crafted metal garlic sculpture that makes the house joke literal.
All of that adds up to a restaurant built for more than one kind of evening, and the weekly promotions lay the options out plainly — pasta on Tuesday, a three-course date night on Wednesday, pizza on Thursday, two burgers on Sunday. Strip the promotions away and the constant is still on the plate: an ingredient most kitchens keep in the background, pulled to the front and cooked a dozen ways. Garlic's has spent three decades a short walk from the Grand Theatre's marquee, turning the word on its sign into the thing on the fork.