Before O Cantinho was a Barton Street restaurant, it was a brick oven in a Hamilton backyard. The family cooked Portuguese chicken that way for years, by their own account, before the founder found a former pizza shop on the block between Wellington and Wentworth, put a barbecue out back, and turned the property into a churrasqueira. The doors opened in 1998 and the operation has stayed family-run since — mother, father, grandmother, and aunts all part of the work at different points, with the children growing into front-of-house roles. The brick-oven habit moved indoors, the sauce came with it, and almost three decades later the Portuguese BBQ chicken is still the answer most first-timers get when they ask the host what to order.
The Famous BBQ Half Chicken with the house piri-piri is the order to start with. The chicken cooks slowly over charcoal; the sauce is built, in the restaurant's own description, from pepper, garlic, vinegar, olive oil, and a list of spices the kitchen does not give out. Hand-Cut French Fries are the easy companion. Parisienne Potatoes — the small Portuguese-seasoned balls — are the better one when the plate is going to need something that holds chicken juices. Portuguese Rice rounds out the family-style sides, and a House Garden Mix salad keeps the plate from going one-note. A whole chicken, sized for takeout, brings the same order home for a family meal without the BBQ identity getting lost in transit.
The chicken is the calling card, but the menu does not stop at the grill. Codfish Cakes, Garlic Shrimp, sauteed onion-and-garlic mussels, Chouriço Assado, and a Calamari Fritti appetizer run alongside an entree section that holds grilled cod, scrambled cod in the bacalhau a bras style, grilled sea bass, Portuguese grilled sardines, and grilled squid. Pork back ribs, a New York strip, and a bifana no prato fill out the meat side. This is a kitchen that decided early on what its signature was, then built the rest of the menu so a Portuguese diner could eat through it for weeks at a time without working through the chicken every visit. The breadth is the second thing the menu does. The first is the chicken.
O Cantinho sits on the Barton Street stretch between Wellington and Wentworth, a few blocks from Hamilton General Hospital. Doctors and nurses from the hospital are part of the daily crowd, by the family's own account; Portuguese diners across the city are the other half; Barton Village neighbours fill in the rest. The dining room is casual rather than special-occasion — regulars on first-name terms, Portuguese cues throughout, prices a long way south of where a churrasqueira with this much menu could plausibly sit. Hours track the working week: closed Monday, open through dinner Tuesday through Saturday, with an earlier Sunday close that turns the last service of the week into a long lunch.
The restaurant is built for takeout as much as sit-down. The whole chicken travels well; the Hand-Cut French Fries and Parisienne Potatoes hold their texture in a box; the piri-piri ships in its own container so the heat is dosed at home. The takeout side of the operation moves alongside in-house service rather than behind it, with family-size orders sized for a full evening meal rather than a single plate.
The weekly specials are where the deeper Portuguese menu opens up. Thursday brings Roasted Rabbit. Friday is Portuguese Octopus. Saturday holds the Portuguese Pork and Beans the kitchen treats as feijuada. Sunday rotates between Roasted Lamb or Goat and the Portuguese Meat and Vegetable Stew the restaurant calls cozido. Desserts are short and old-school: Flan Caramel for the dine-in finish, Portuguese Custard Tarts for the takeout one. The chicken is the answer most days. The specials are the answer to why one chicken-first menu has held two different crowds at the same table for this long.