A lakeside dining room can usually coast on the water and let the kitchen come second. The Boathouse does not run that way. Sitting on Lake Muskoka inside the Taboo resort in Gravenhurst, it pairs one of the better patio views in cottage country with a menu that has been deliberately reset — Italian-leaning, built to be planned around rather than ordered off idly while the light goes. The patio is the draw on a July evening, but the kitchen is the reason a group stays past it. The water sets the timing; the food is what the table actually organizes itself around.
The pasta is the clearest read on that intent. Spicy Rigatoni runs a sharper tomato-cream lane than resort kitchens usually bother with, enough heat to keep it from settling into comfort food, with Smoked Mozzarella Ravioli and Tiger Shrimp Risotto beside it as the Italian core. The stone-baked pizzas are the easy bridge between a proper dinner and a casual afternoon by the water — shareable, built to order around a round of drinks. To start, Fresh Whipped Ricotta with Muskoka Honey does the local touch without weighing the meal down, and an Artisan Charcuterie Board or Caesar Carpaccio opens a longer evening.
Past the Italian core, the menu widens further than a resort dining room needs to. Ancho Chile-Braised Lamb Shank, Seared Scallops, a New York Striploin, and Steak Tartare hold the dinner end, while a Boathouse Burger and Truffle-Parmesan Fries cover the table that wants less occasion, and a Vegan Cassoulet and Vegan Summer Gumbo mean a plant-based order is not an afterthought. Local fish shows up too — a Blackened Trout and a Trout Cake nod to the water around it — and a Buttermilk Chicken Breast keeps a plain option on hand. Breakfast and lunch run as well, so the same kitchen carries a guest from a morning plate through to dinner, and catering extends it to the groups a resort tends to draw.
What ties that range together is a menu direction with a name behind it. The current Boathouse carries the imprint of a McEwan Group partnership — the Toronto chef Mark McEwan's group shaping and training the menu rather than cooking on site — and the distance from standard resort dining shows. Regional coverage framed the arrangement as a culinary upgrade for cottage country, and the useful version of that claim is on the plate: the pasta, the pizza program, and the starters read as decisions, not a banquet default bolted onto a hotel.
The restaurant opened in 2018, and its clearest identity dates to the 2025 refresh. It earns repeat visits the way lakeside dining rarely does — through programming as much as scenery. Weekly drink specials give the calendar a rhythm: ten-dollar glasses of Prosecco to open the week on Muskoka Monday, half-priced bottles from noon on Wine Down Wednesday, a six-dollar bar rail on Friday, Caesars and mimosas through a summer Sunday. Live music and trivia fill the evenings that want energy as well as a sunset.
The lake still decides the timing. Patio seats and sunset reservations are the move in summer, which is why booking ahead matters more here than the price range suggests, and the OpenTable link is the way to hold one. But the reason to return is the plan the menu allows: pasta and pizza to share, a ricotta starter, a drink special that happens to land on the night you are free, and a view that rewards getting the hour right. The Boathouse works best when the table plans around both the water and the order — and lately the order holds up its end.